Halifax: Fort, Boardwalk and Open Atlantic

Nova Scotia's provincial capital lies beside one of the biggest natural harbours anywhere. The compact centre can be crossed in about twenty minutes, tipping downhill from an old hilltop fort to the water's edge. Vessels have worked these waters for nearly three centuries, and daily life here still follows the tides and the ferry timetable. Expect sea air, streets older than most of the country, and neighbours who will happily chat while you wait in line. It is an easy place to explore at a relaxed pace, whether you have a long weekend or a full week.

Places to Sleep

• The Prince George Hotel: In the centre of town on George Street, a block downhill from Citadel Hill. Rooms are roomy and peaceful, and you can reach the waterfront in less than ten minutes on foot. Restaurants and shops are on the doorstep.
• Halifax Marriott Harbourfront Hotel: Right on the water at the northern end of the boardwalk, so your stroll begins at the front entrance. Request a room facing the harbour and you can follow the ferries as they shuttle to Dartmouth and return. It is a handy base for first-time visitors.
• The Hollis Halifax - a DoubleTree Suites by Hilton Hotel: Every room is a suite, on Hollis Street in the historic core. The fort rises uphill from the entrance and the boardwalk lies downhill, so both are a quick walk away. The extra space helps if you are travelling with children.

What to See and Do

• The waterfront boardwalk: A four-kilometre boardwalk follows the shore, passing docked vessels, snack stands and street musicians. Pause for a bowl of chowder at the midpoint, then continue to the Maritime Museum of the Atlantic. Dusk is a lovely time to walk it, when the lights come on across the water.
• Citadel Hill: A star-shaped fortress crowns the hill over the centre of town. Completed in 1856, it was never attacked. Costumed guides in 78th Highlanders uniform march across the parade ground, and a cannon goes off at midday each day. The lookout from the ramparts is worth the climb on its own.
• Peggy's Cove: Roughly forty-five minutes along the coast to the west, this working fishing village is set on bare granite and topped by a stubby red-and-white lighthouse. Waves here are more powerful than they appear and the dark wet rocks at the edge are slippery, so keep well back from them.

Family-Friendly Places to Eat

Plenty of Halifax restaurants will gladly seat a big group with a pushchair in tow. These are some reliable choices:

• The Wooden Monkey:
  Where: 1707 Grafton Street, Halifax, Nova Scotia, B3J 2C6
  Ingredients come from Nova Scotia farms and fishing boats, and the menu stretches from burgers to a generous range of vegetarian and vegan dishes. Families with young children fit right in.
• Tomavinos Pizza:
  Where: 5173 South Street, Halifax, Nova Scotia, B3J 1A1
  Pizzas are made to order, so everyone can choose their own toppings. The dining room is relaxed, and pasta dishes are there for anyone who does not fancy pizza.
• Darrell's Restaurant:
  Where: 5576 Fenwick Street, Halifax, Nova Scotia, B3H 1P8
  Burgers have been the speciality on Fenwick Street for years, but the peanut butter milkshake is what brings people back. It is noisy, informal and fast.
• Freeman's Little New York:
  Where: 6092 Quinpool Road, Halifax, Nova Scotia, B3L 1A1
  A local sports bar along Quinpool Road where the pizza gets real care. Pasta and pub favourites round out the menu, and a game is nearly always playing on a screen somewhere.
• Ardmore Tea Room:
  Where: 6499 Quinpool Road, Halifax, Nova Scotia, B3L 1A6
  An old-style diner that has barely changed and has no reason to. Fish and chips, meatloaf, all-day breakfast and endless refills of coffee.
• Niche Lounge:
  Where: 1505 Barrington Street, Halifax, Nova Scotia, B3J 3K5
  A cosy spot on Barrington Street serving lunch plates, fresh salads and homey dishes. It is calm enough to talk and relaxed enough for any weeknight.
• East of Grafton Tavern:
  Where: 1580 Argyle Street, Halifax, Nova Scotia, B3J 2B3
  A tavern on Argyle Street serving pub favourites alongside a handful of more ambitious plates. Its patio is packed as soon as the sun comes out.

A Few Things Worth Knowing

• Two events shaped the city: After the Titanic went down in 1912, ships from Halifax brought back the victims' bodies, and around 150 are buried in three local cemeteries. Five years afterwards an ammunition ship exploded in the harbour and levelled much of the north end. The Maritime Museum tells both stories.
• Lobster country: No other province hauls in more lobster than Nova Scotia, and plenty of it ends up on plates in Halifax. Seasons vary by fishing district, so ask what was landed today instead of relying on the printed menu.
• A small city with a lot on: A cluster of universities keeps the music and theatre scene lively. A buskers festival fills the waterfront each summer, and a film festival follows in September.